There are many wool mills that maintain rare and precious materials. These wool and wool blended fabric selections are purchased through the most discerning customers wanting uniqueness and value far greater than what's available to the mass market such as department stores and outlets. Even some of the most notable menswear suiting brands and steered away from finer fabrics due to the company's expense and profitability goals. Another problem is the ability for big brands and department stores to hire sales professionals that have the technical and tailoring expertise to charge a purchase such as this. Mostly, successful independents and clothier speciality stores are able to offer finer garment wool fabrics as mentioned below.
It's a true fact that of the 75 million sheep that live currently live in Australia that only 18 produce wool with he fineness inferior to 19 Microns. Of the 32 million sheep living living in New Zealand, only 2.2 million produce wool with fineness of inferior to 21 microns. ( What are Microns ? A unit of length equal to one millionth of a meter, used in many technological and scientific fields. More specifically, used to measure the fineness of wool textiles for suitings. )
WISH from Loro Piana
Wish SUPER 170'S is obtained from batches of wool whose average does not exceed 15 microns. This is compared with China's best cashmere that varies between 14 to 16 microns and offers extraordinary fluid and soft hand to be immediately perceived to the first touch. The WISH collection can be worn throughout the year and it adapts perfectly to each season and to every climate and latitude, guaranteeing maximum comfort at all times. - LORO PIANA
I have used several fabrics from the WISH collection and I want to note that this is the ideal collection for luxury garments that fit the bill for timeless elegance and perfect drape. It is indefinitely soft to the touch like most 100% cashmere fabrics and also offers timeless coloring in the selection. I usually recommend it to clients who want to upgrade their basics. Obviously there are far superior fabrics out there from other mills if you wanted the utmost luxurious basic suitings. However, I don't think you can go wrong with the WISH selections.
Scabal's “Diamond Chip” cloth is a 260g Super 150’s silk in a plain basket weave.
Scabal sources its diamond fragments from a highly respected company in Antwerp, one of the centres of the world’s diamond trade. Since the late 1990s, Scabal has won a global reputation for its technical skill in developing cloth that combines precious stones and metals with superfine fabrics. Gold, platinum and lapis lazuli, as well as diamonds, are all used in Scabal’s specialist cloths. Always with their eyes on the demands of the global luxury goods market, the design and technical teams at Scabal continue to blend human creativity and technical excellence. The “Diamond Chip” jacketings selection is yet another first for Scabal. The ideal complement to this jacketings selection is Scabal’s superb “Concerto” collection for trousers. In 100% wool, this Super 150’s quality weighs 240gr and is available in 26 plain twill fabrics, with a palette running from beige to black
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In the sartorial menswear scene, the many shades of purple is indeed a popular choice for the elegant fashion conscious consumer. For me personally, I have made several sport coats in a solid "shiraz" colored purple along with overcoats in cabernet colors for both men and women. A new line of silk that I found is especially appealing as seen above. @serfinesilk shows a silk "ox blood" knit tie that is stunning! As for you readers, continue to look out for this fashion color trend in the streets worldwide!!
The DB has been around for centuries and is one of the founding garment patterns in menswear history. We are seeing today that the DB is at the head of this years menswear trends and many men are trying to figure out how to pull it off. Firstly, consider that this style is a bold statement. Being bold requires an attitude that exudes confidence and respects the art of sartorial tailored clothing. Bold patterns such as in the picture from our Tumblr feed is an exceptional choice for summer wear. If you still have that spare tire around your waist then take advantage since the extra fabric overlays the front and covers most of the excess flab. A workout and a protein shake wouldn’t hurt much either. Also, the DB style is suitable for almost every occasion. The neutrality of the style covers everything from casual dinners with jeans or sport trousers to fully dressed in suiting attire and also including formal occasions like cocktail events and weddings. If your interested in seeing more DB styles then please let us know here! There are many options to the overall look and we’ll show you how you can put together outfits to pull it off! Below is a great article written by Veteran Philip Pravada about the DB trend and industry specifics. – G.
It has been a few years since I have worn a double breasted suit. In the early 1990s, that ‘s the only design of suit that I wore and felt comfortable in. Every suit I owned was a double breasted. For many years now I have been wearing single breasted suits. Periodically, I would come into contact with a “DB” suit and would try it on and look in the mirror. This would usually occur at a clothing factory or showroom where there were samples available to try. The suit felt comfortable and has a commanding presence about it.
A well-made double breasted suit has six buttons on the front that can be seen. On the interior there is a hidden, single lower button used to connect the other side of the jacket to the interior to hold the balance of the jacket in place. Have you ever seen David Letterman walk on the stage when he only has the interior button buttoned and the outside unbuttoned? The outer part of the jacket just flips open and stays in that position. He used to do it during his monologue. These days he is wearing single breasted suits, but I digress. Double breasted suits tend to shift on the body when the interior button is not used. This is also the reason why these suits look better when they are worn in the closed position.
On the exterior of the jacket there are also two button holes. The button holes are on the same side, one above the other. These button holes line up with two buttons placed on the other side of the jacket. This six buttons design, showing two buttons holes is called a “6 on 2” or “6×2” “DB”. After fastening the interior button, you have a choice to close the upper exterior button or both the upper and lower exterior buttons. The method to wearing a double breasted suit jacket is to close the upper exterior button. When the lower button is left open it allows for more comfort and less constriction when moving and sitting. A very important point about a this suit is that it should always have peak lapels. Peak lapels rise up to a point or “peak” on either side of the jacket.
The double breasted suit is a powerful looking suit and commands a room if it fits well. It is the most difficult suit to manufacture in terms of proper tailoring and there aren’t too many companies that get it right. The “DB” is not in main stream today, but is fashionable. Many manufacturers are showing it in their shows and collections. Why are they showing it? Because it has been out of favor for quite some time and they feel it is time to create a new version of what was. The double breasted is now the fashion suit, slimmer and shorter in length. Some have very narrow lapels and some designers have created extra wide lapels. Designers are putting out their feelers to see the public reaction. It will catch on again one day. Everything in menswear gets recycled to some extent. If you keep something in your closet long enough for it to go out of fashion, one day it will be back in fashion.
Massimo leads me upstairs to Dormeuil’s showroom, where we stand over a square, flat cider box embossed with platinum shined letters that reads ” Dormeuil Vanquish II. He then lifts the cover off the box like a waiter raising a metallic dome displaying the finest medium rare prime steak money can buy. Inside is a swatch sample of their top-of-the-line cloth which is a blend of sixty percent Pashmina ( Dormeuil’s trademarked name for a very fine cashmere from Pashmina goats found in India’s Ladakh region), thirty percent vicuna and ten percent musk ox or better known as qiviut. This cloth sells for $5,000 a yard! Mind you that a suit requires three in a half yards which alone is starting with over $15,000 in fabric cost! The cost is in reflection of the difficulty harvesting the cloth.
Each musk ox loses around six pounds of hair when molting during the spring. Nomads collect the majority of the yarn by trailing the musk ox herds and picking up the fallen hair one pennant at a time usually inside throw bushes or any branches and rocks where the hair has been snagged and released. Collecting it by hand takes about a year for a full production. Usually only ten to fifteen percent of the collections are used due to the shortness of the fibers which makes it extremely difficult to weave.
Vanquish II by Dormeuil
The Vanquish II cloth isn’t a top seller for the fabric mill. However, it has served royals and over the top luxury consumers for years and still continues to be a cloth of choice for many “one percenters” .
“In 2009, a entrepreneur Alexander Amousu, who had made a fortune selling hip-hop ringtones and diamond-bedazzled cell phones, partnered with Dormeuil to create a Vanquish II suit. Stitched by hand with gold and diamond buttons, it was sold to a British businessman for more than $100,000. Brioni also used Vanquish II to make suits, which, without the precious gems were a mere $43,000.” – Meg Lukens Noonan
The cloth gathered attention to the Russian, Indian and Chinese tycoons who covet the expensive and exotic cloth.
” Today, Dormeuil fits comfortably into the world of contemporary luxury, pioneering innovative cloths using the world’s finest and rarest natural fibers. Dormeuil’s collections include the exquisite Haute Couture range that continues to tempt leading fashion houses of our time while also offering limited edition cloths for the extraordinary. ” – Dormeuil
These exceptional fabrics are developed by Dormeuil’s own design team and manufactured in non-other than England, using traditional methods that are blended with the very best of modern technology and superior hand craftsmanship finishes. You may inquire today about the varieties of this exclusive fabric and best methods of sourcing and purchasing.
It is wonderful, is it not? That on that small pivot turns the fortune of such multitudes of men, women, and children, in so many parts of the world; that such industry, and so many fine faculties, should be brought out an exercised by so small a thing as a button. “ – Charles Dicken
From across the dim lighted party room, the one wearing looks as if he were wearing a basic black dinner jacket. However, the sheen from the silk in dim lighting is unavoidable as well as the glistening of the swarovski crystal buttons beaming light in every which direction that is capturing the attention to every patron attending the hosted charity party. About midway in distance to the gentleman you can begin to see the details of this incredible design. History of the paisley print begins to scroll through your mind dating as far back as your grade schooling. However, this was much more than the rule of the Sassanians empire who’s savaged army managed to keep the Romans at bay for centuries. This gentleman was his own empire slaying the comforts of style of those around him. So modern, so elegant and so far ahead to the perception of those observing him. Mentally you jot down the styling details of the garment. You realize you must approach this man to ask him where he purchased this beautifully worn art as if you were in line to ask a buddhist monk the answer to life. His appeal became an asset, strong enough that others waited to learn about his personality and ideals that hopefully matches their own perceived notions of perfection and elegance. People attending crowded looking busy sipping their refreshments and viewing their phones as if they were reading work related emails that demanded urgency all of who that were just waiting for the opportunity to receive the answers to their curiosity. Was that he intention? Did he figure out how to build his network through his superb style? He was capturing the eyes with his beautiful garment and demanding the attention from others who were mystified how a human being can be dressed so perfectly. You just had to know like everyone else. You have to learn how to do as he does. That’s why your here. No other way would do.
It’s summer time again! Every season hundreds of people ask us what to throw away for their summer wardrobe cleaning. Summer evaluation is a great way to determine what in your closet is just wasting space due to the fact that you no longer wear the clothing hanging there. You may have several reasons for not wearing them but why look at them everyday? Here are some ideas that will help you determine what to give away and what to replace.
1) Throw Away Any Two Pleated Trousers. Any trousers at all with two pleats are non-existent to the modern day menswear culture. Two pleated trousers are dated and do not look appealing on most men especially if you have athletic legs. Take your losses and get yourself some trousers that fit trimmer around the seat and legs preferably in flat fronts.
2) Still Wearing That Three Button Jacket Mom Bought You?
Three buttons are now coming back in style but they are not traditional. Most Italian designers are placing the second button at the same placement as a regular two button with the first button “rolled” into the lapel. Your wide lapeled traditional three button needs to be retired. There are plenty of people who need a coat for warmth or who are just starting to work as you once did. Do yourself a favor and give it a new home.
3) Are Your Dress Shirts Frayed At The Collar?
It’s inevitable that this will happen one day. Don’t try to replace just the collars while searching madly trying to finding the same fabric. If your a real penny pincher, you could just replace the collar and cuffs and make the shirt a contrasting color with white cuffs and collar. Then again, you could just get some new shirts without the pit stains.
4) Did You Find Holes, Lose Threads, and Deeply Ingrained Stains?
Are those 10 year old Levi’s fraying at the bottom with holes at the knees. Is there a tiny hole at the armpit of your favorite Sunday cookout excursion. Do yourself a favor and clean up your act. The women will appreciate it.
Summer closet cleaning should be your ritual every year. There are so many other uses for your old clothes. I hope this summer has been great for you thus far. Make it better by lessening the load of the things you don’t need.
Famously, the tartan plaid is increasing in popularity with our custom orders. This Scottish heritage cloth originally was used draped over the shoulders as a kilt accessory. The two toned vertical and horizontal lines forms squares which is called a sett. Historically the Dress Act of 1746 attempted to bring Scotland’s warrior clans under government control by banning the tartan and other aspects of the Gaelic culture. In 1782 the law was repealed and as it was no longer the ordinary highland dress and was instead adopted as the symbolic national dress of Scotland.
Today, many clients have chosen to wear the tartan plaid for more festive occasions such as major holiday parties. Shown above is Kiton’s double breasted SS15 dinner jacket.
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